BRITTA CARLSON
Featured in The Gryphon’s May 2025 Print Zine

Photos and text: Britta Carlson

FASHION THE ARCHIVES

Post-World War I ushered in an economic boom: prohibition, jazz, and dance.

A liberated lifestyle shifted fashion towards more comfortable and relaxed clothing. Men wore knickerbockers and sweater vests. Women shortened their hemlines, dropped their waistlines, and loosened silhouettes. No piece of clothing was to stop anybody from doing the Charleston.

1920

  • Post-World War I ushered in an economic boom: prohibition, jazz, and dance.

    A liberated lifestyle shifted fashion towards more comfortable and relaxed clothing. Men wore knickerbockers and sweater vests. Women shortened their hemlines, dropped their waistlines, and loosened silhouettes. No piece of clothing was to stop anybody from doing the Charleston.

Hollywood glamour took Western closets by storm. Greta Garbo popularised the Marcel wave,

sharp shoulders, and backless gowns — replacing a boyish 1920s. As the Great Depression took hold, glitz became the distraction. For the first time ever, accessorising became tangible for the working class, with hats, gloves, and costume jewellery used to elevate a budget wardrobe.

1930

  • Hollywood glamour took Western closets by storm. Greta Garbo popularised the Marcel wave,

    sharp shoulders, and backless gowns — replacing a boyish 1920s. As the Great Depression took hold, glitz became the distraction. For the first time ever, accessorising became tangible for the working class, with hats, gloves, and costume jewellery used to elevate a budget wardrobe.

World War II ordered practicality. To minimise fabric, skirts were cut shorter and shoulders sewn rounder. With textile rationing in place, women mixed instead of matched — a never-before-seen approach to fashion. Female empowerment was on the horizon, led by the androgynous Katharine Hepburn and Rita Hayworth in their ‘men’s’ suits. But after years of austerity, the people wanted glamour. Fashion houses gravitated back towards more traditionally feminine styles.

1940

  • World War II ordered practicality. To minimise fabric, skirts were cut shorter and shoulders sewn rounder. With textile rationing in place, women mixed instead of matched — a never-before-seen approach to fashion. Female empowerment was on the horizon, led by the androgynous Katharine Hepburn and Rita Hayworth in their ‘men’s’ suits. But after years of austerity, the people wanted glamour. Fashion houses gravitated back towards more traditionally feminine styles.

Christian Dior reigned the 60's with his ‘New Look’ (coined by Carmel Snow, editor of Harper’s Bazaar at the time): nipped waists, petticoats, and soft shoulders. With their bright red lipstick, Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor rewrote the fashion narrative — turning the page from practicality to ultra-femininity. And as fashion became more accessible, Audrey’s pearls were no longer reserved for A-listers.

With the rise of television, entertainment permeated wardrobes. For ‘his’ wardrobe, this meant channeling James Dean and his rebellious jeans-and-leather look.

1950

  • Christian Dior reigned the 60's with his ‘New Look’ (coined by Carmel Snow, editor of Harper’s Bazaar at the time): nipped waists, petticoats, and soft shoulders. With their bright red lipstick, Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor rewrote the fashion narrative — turning the page from practicality to ultra-femininity. And as fashion became more accessible, Audrey’s pearls were no longer reserved for A-listers.

    With the rise of television, entertainment permeated wardrobes. For ‘his’ wardrobe, this meant channeling James Dean and his rebellious jeans-and-leather look.

The ‘youthquake’ shook the conservative mid-century, introducing shorter hemlines and bold geometric patterns. Sex, miniskirts, and Mod culture were put on the covers of Vogue — à la Mary Quant.

Britain had officially invaded fashion trends. But not everyone loosened their fits and ties like The Beatles.

Jackie Kennedy, the English’s fashion threat, made tailored suits, cropped jackets, and stilettos the dichotomous must-haves. Non-Western influences made their debut in Western wardrobes, and not even the American trend of fiscal conservatism could challenge the embrace of the bohemian hippie movement.

1960

  • The ‘youthquake’ shook the conservative mid-century, introducing shorter hemlines and bold geometric patterns. Sex, miniskirts, and Mod culture were put on the covers of Vogue — à la Mary Quant.

    Britain had officially invaded fashion trends. But not everyone loosened their fits and ties like The Beatles.

    Jackie Kennedy, the English’s fashion threat, made tailored suits, cropped jackets, and stilettos the dichotomous must-haves. Non-Western influences made their debut in Western wardrobes, and not even the American trend of fiscal conservatism could challenge the embrace of the bohemian hippie movement.

Individuality defined the 70's — opening its doors for subcultures. It was a threefold of disco sequins, punk ripped tees, and Bohemia. With synthetic materials on the rise, each style (despite how different) had one thing in common: bold colour. Think Blondie’s “Union City” blue wrapped into one decade. Social and political change also inspired this era, birthing anti-conformist ‘casual’ staples — sweaters, T-shirts, jeans, and sneakers.

From Stevie Nicks’ shawls to Bowie’s glitter, anything goes in the 70's.

1970

  • Individuality defined the 70's — opening its doors for subcultures. It was a threefold of disco sequins, punk ripped tees, and Bohemia. With synthetic materials on the rise, each style (despite how different) had one thing in common: bold colour. Think Blondie’s “Union City” blue wrapped into one decade. Social and political change also inspired this era, birthing anti-conformist ‘casual’ staples — sweaters, T-shirts, jeans, and sneakers.

    From Stevie Nicks’ shawls to Bowie’s glitter, anything goes in the 70's.

The 80s were a dichotomy of minimalism and exaggerated individualism.

Giorgio Armani suited (a prosperous) Wall Street and the rise of ‘the working woman’. New York’s hustle turned the Hamptons into a magnet for getaways — a playground for the rich, productised by Ralph Lauren.

For the nine-to-fivers, Jane Fonda’s teased hair, headbands, and bright-coloured leg warmers became staples of fashion liberation. And once reserved for weekends, acid-wash jeans went mainstream — worn by everyone from South Fork to the park bench.

1980

  • The 80s were a dichotomy of minimalism and exaggerated individualism.

    Giorgio Armani suited (a prosperous) Wall Street and the rise of ‘the working woman’. New York’s hustle turned the Hamptons into a magnet for getaways — a playground for the rich, productised by Ralph Lauren.

    For the nine-to-fivers, Jane Fonda’s teased hair, headbands, and bright-coloured leg warmers became staples of fashion liberation. And once reserved for weekends, acid-wash jeans went mainstream —

    worn by everyone from South Fork to the park bench.

The 90s shifted from an opulent 80s toward minimalist, casual trends. Hip-hop taught street fashion the luxury of a label, with brands like Phat Farm and Rocawear introducing a new era of material wealth.

Fashion became unfussed, an epidemic of less is more. Oversized slip dresses, Calvin Klein’s clean

lines, and white tees were paired with tattoos and piercings. Kate Moss defined heroin chic with low-rise jeans, while Princess Diana showed us the versatility of the crewneck.

1990

  • The 90s shifted from an opulent 80s toward minimalist, casual trends. Hip-hop taught street fashion the luxury of a label, with brands like Phat Farm and Rocawear introducing a new era of material wealth.

    Fashion became unfussed, an epidemic of less is more. Oversized slip dresses, Calvin Klein’s clean

    lines, and white tees were paired with tattoos and piercings. Kate Moss defined heroin chic with low-rise jeans, while Princess Diana showed us the versatility of the crewneck.

The 2000s were a global mashup of subcultures — starring low-rise in any look.

Fashion icons like Britney Spears, Paris Hilton, and Christina Aguilera influenced sales racks. We saw a return of the 60s boho chic, but with y2k crop tops. Accessories took centre stage featuring baguette bags, chunky belts, aviator sunglasses, and jelly bracelets. Amidst the era of ‘logo-mania,’ Juicy Couture cemented its place in fashion

2000

  • The 2000s were a global mashup of subcultures — starring low-rise in any look.

    Fashion icons like Britney Spears, Paris Hilton, and Christina Aguilera influenced sales racks. We saw a return of the 60s boho chic, but with y2k crop tops. Accessories took centre stage featuring baguette bags, chunky belts, aviator sunglasses, and jelly bracelets. Amidst the era of ‘logo-mania,’ Juicy Couture cemented its place in fashion

Instagram democratised trends, pitting athleisure’s Victoria’s Secret yogapants against Tumblr’s flannels and fedoras. Rihanna and ASAP Rocky blurred gender lines, bringing back chokers and dad shoes — catering to those less interested in Gossip Girl’s statement necklaces. With the rise of social media, fashion capitals like Milan, New York, and Paris faced a new threat: influencer collaborations.

The Kardashians entered their second season, sparking an obsession with micro-trends.

2010

  • Instagram democratised trends, pitting athleisure’s Victoria’s Secret yogapants against Tumblr’s flannels and fedoras. Rihanna and ASAP Rocky blurred gender lines, bringing back chokers and dad shoes — catering to those less interested in Gossip Girl’s statement necklaces. With the rise of social media, fashion capitals like Milan, New York, and Paris faced a new threat: influencer collaborations.

    The Kardashians entered their second season, sparking an obsession with micro-trends.

Capsule wardrobes. Upcycling. Repurposing. Transformation.

2020

  • Capsule wardrobes. Upcycling. Repurposing. Transformation.